The Onion Incident

My husband loves caramelized onions even more than I do. We’ve imagined inventing a specialized appliance to make these magical alliums automatically, or at least hands-off. I know there’s plenty of ideas and solutions out there that I’ve never tried. But these days, I need to cook for efficiency and in a schedule-friendly way. This week I got inspired to make a favorite dinner from our B.C. era (Before Children): French Dip sandwiches. I planned to cook the onions in the early afternoon, before the kids’ karate lesson. Then, I’d come home and throw together the sandwiches with deli roast beef and add a quick salad. Well, the day got away from me. A tiny bit of snow fell and the kids were determined to make the most of it. I steam-sauteed a couple of onions in between digging out the snow pants from last year and the next-size-up boots I’d found at the resale store. But there wasn’t any caramelization yet when it was time to head out. I figured I’d keep the heat on low until the last minute and then put a lid on and turn off the stove. We’d only be gone about an hour.

As I parked in the driveway, pleased that the trip had been uneventful even with a bit of snow on the ground, my husband poked his head out the door and asked me to go right back out and buy some more onions. I noticed a darker-than-caramel smell coming from the house. Somehow, I’d forgotten to do that final turn-off-the-stove step, and the onions were burned to a shade of black that exactly matched the cast iron skillet. My husband works from home, but had gone out right around the same time as I had, and when he arrived home it was already too late for those parched onions. We were committed to the sandwiches, so we worked together to salvage the dinner. He borrowed an onion from the neighbors, sliced up another batch, and I cooked them in my non-stick pan with a pinch of baking soda to accelerate softening. An hour and a half later, we sat down to eat. The sandwiches were delicious.

French Dip Sandwiches

The purpose of this meal is to provide a framework for the caramelized onions. They are the star of the show, and the only part that requires any real effort. If you wear goggles, no tears will be shed and if you are patient and reasonably attentive, all will be well.

Saute 2 or 3 sliced onions in several tablespoons of butter or oil. Add a pinch of salt to encourage the liquid to exude. Keep the heat on medium until all the liquid has simmered away. Turn the heat down and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are very soft and start to take on a golden brown color. Meanwhile, prep your side salad. Keep cooking and stirring until the onions are close to done. Then, preheat the oven to 350. On a rimmed baking sheet, open sandwich rolls and lay slices of Swiss or Provolone cheese on one half of each roll. Bake for a few minutes to melt the cheese. Layer slices of deli roast beef generously on top of the cheese. Return to the oven, and turn it off after a minute or two but leave the pan in the oven. When the onions are deep golden brown, prepare your “faux jus.” In a microwave-safe container, combine beef broth (½ cup per serving) with Worcestershire sauce, soy sauce, and/or balsamic vinegar to taste. Heat to a nice steamy temperature. Take the sandwiches out of the oven, spread caramelized onions over the non-cheesy side of the rolls, and serve with cups of broth for dipping and salad on the side. Très cozy!